Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive the kind of low-intervention red

the kind of low-intervention red that begs for a slight chill and an easy night

Emilio Moro’s Malleolus Valderramiro 2020 is a stunning tribute to the high-elevation vineyards of Ribera del Duero

a warm prickle rather than a burn

let alone in the Patagonian desert of Rio Negro

which is exactly why this is a steal: a crisp

Brovia, Barolo Rocche di Castiglione, 2013 Clusel Roch 2021 2nd prereceive the kind of low-intervention red2013 cool, late ripening, high in acid is exactly the sort of classical vintage that plays to this cru's strengths: perfume and tension rather than weight. Brovia farms some of Castiglione Falletto's best sites, and Rocche di Castiglione is one of the Barolo zone's most celebrated crus, a long, steep, limestone rich slope facing southeast that yields wine of perfume and finesse rather than brute power. Brovia's style here weds generous fruit to that